Peggy’s Cove

Peggy’s Point Lighthouse is a national icon of Canada, and is likely the most photographed lighthouse in the whole world. This lighthouse guards the mouth of St Margarett’s Bay, and is located in the small village of Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia. Located within the Halifax area, Peggy’s Cove is about a forty five minute drive southwest of Nova Scotia’s capital city. The lighthouse is the feature attraction of the town, but the activities in the village are plentiful.

History

Established in 1811, the village was set up by a land grant to six German families. The church was built in 1885 and still stands today. How the village received the name of Peggy’s Cove is a mystery, but it stems off two theories. The more likely story is that Peggy is a nickname of Margaret, and the village sits on the mouth of St Margaret’s Bay. Opposing that theory, is a romantic tale about a woman named Peggy of the Cove. Peggy’s story is one of tragedy and romance, after she was the lone survivor of a boat wreck in the 1800s. She washed up on the shore, and was rescued by a fisherman, who she later married. It is unclear on whether this legend was true or not, but I think it is a nice backstory. The population peaked in the early 1900s at just over three hundred people. During that time they established a schoolhouse, a church, lobster cannery, and a general store. The first lighthouse was built in 1868, and the current lighthouse was built in 1915. The lobster fishing business was the primary industry of the town. Nowadays tourism is the major drive for the town, but the fishing industry is still prevalent.

Peggy’s Point Lighthouse

Often nicknamed Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, this lighthouse is the featured attraction of the village. The original lighthouse stood until 1954, and was used as the residence of the lighthouse keeper. It remained the residence of the lighthouse keeper until it was destroyed by Hurricane Edna. Peggy’s Point Lighthouse stands fifteen meters(72 ft) tall, and become automated in 1958, and currently flickers a red light. Be careful when you visit the lighthouse, as it stands very close to the ocean, and there is nobody to rescue you if you fall in. The general rule of the village is to stay off the black rocks. There are signs posted all over the place, and once you are on the rocks it is quite clear to see which rocks are black and which ones aren’t. The black rocks are wet slippery rocks, that usually indicate that a rogue wave has recently crashed onto the rock, and could do so again. There is plenty of space that is a safe distance, and there is even a brand new observation deck. This new deck offers a solution for people with wheelchairs, strollers, and scooters, as it is much easier to catch a glimpse of the sea for everyone now. The deck is full of chairs, and blends in well with the granite sloped backdrop to the lighthouse.

Seafood

Known for some of the best seafood in the continent, Nova Scotia boasts a wide array of decadent seafood. The cold waters of the North Atlantic create the perfect atmosphere for lobster fishing. The lobster season runs from November through May, so when we went in early June the price on lobster was still fairly cheap since the season had just recently closed. Back home I used to work at a seafood restaurant, where I would often stand there rolling silverware bored out of my mind. I would daydream about an experience where I could eat fresh lobster right next to the ocean, and served my nice people. Fortunately that dream came true, when I feasted on a 1.75 pound fresh lobster. Many people believe that the colder waters of Nova Scotia create a more tender flavored lobster than those caught in Maine. My lobster was very flavorful, tender, and a culinary delight. It was served in the traditional style that Nova Scotians have enjoyed for decades, which is with homemade bread, potato salad, cole slaw, melted butter, and a lemon.

In addition to the delicious live lobster, I also tried some of the other seafood options. Lobster was popular in other dishes, so we tried lobster Mac and cheese, lobster nachos, and even lobster butter. In addition to the lobster, I tried some fish and chips, and some homemade fish cakes. The fish and chips were made from fried haddock, which is a bit different from the cod that is typically served in most places. It is especially different from the fried Lake Erie perch that I have been accustomed to eating, while growing up near the shores of Lake Erie. Underneath the scrumptious fried layer, the haddock had a nice buttery taste, that offered more bite than cod. It is worth noting that cod is not nearly as popular in Canada as it is in the states, as the cod fisheries off Canada’s Atlantic coast were all shut down in 1992 after reports of overfishing and scarce numbers. The haddock was a welcomed change and paired nicely with house cut sweet potato fries, and cole slaw. I stepped out of my comfort zone when trying the fish cakes, and was delighted by the experience. Fish cakes are served at breakfast, and are something that many fishermen have enjoyed before heading out on their boats. I appreciate the simple lifestyle of fishermen, and wanted to try this delicacy. They are made with a hash, and feature a few different fish, and vary each place you go to. Paired with green tomato “chow”, baked beans, and bread; this was a filling breakfast that kept me full until dinner.

Art and Shops

Art is an integral part of the culture of Peggy’s Cove, as its breathtaking views have inspired generations of artists. The most influential artists of the region have been William deGarthe, and Neil Depew, who both have art galleries that showcase their work in the village. deGarthe lived from 1907 to 1983, and carved the famous granite sculpture which is next to his former home(and current gallery). Next door, current painter Neil Depew occupies deGarthe’s former studio. I purchased a watercolor from Depew, and stopped by his studio multiple times on my trip. He was humble, and very kind, and even autographs all of his paintings. Please be respectful of the artist’s work, and avoid taking pictures of un purchased artwork. Another shop in town is the Buoy Shop, which sells buoys and displays handcrafted wood sculptures. I appreciated this shop, as it was housed in a former fishing shed, and is ran by fishermen. It has a distinct wooden smell inside, and is full of vibrant colors. In addition to these shops, there are a few other places to buy locally made artisan gifts, and general knick-knacks. Most notably is the SouWester, which hosts a pleasant two story gift shop. Their shop is full of t shirts, art, taffy, fudge, and other delicacies.

Swiss Air Flight 111 Memorial

The ocean is a beautiful, yet unforgiving place. Many tragedies have happened off the shores of the North Atlantic, and one of the more recent tragic events was the crashing of Swiss Air Flight 111. This flight was scheduled on September 2,1998 and was set to take passengers from Geneva, Switzerland to New York City. Unfortunately the plane crashed into the North Atlantic a few miles off the coast of Peggy’s Cove, and all the passengers were lost to the sea. A memorial was built in honor of the lives lost on this flight, and offers a vantage point to where the crash occurred.

Conclusion

I had a fantastic time at Peggy’s Cove, and it was a very relaxing trip. It can get pretty busy during the peak summer months, so we went in early June. It was a bit chilly some days, but overall the weather wasn’t too bad. It rained a lot and was very foggy, but this rain was much needed after a few weeks of blazing wildfires. The rain and the fog tends to come and go as it pleases, so don’t worry too much about the weather as it will likely change. The fishing boats and sheds makes me yearn for a simplistic lifestyle, and was a welcome change to mundane life. I also felt that Nova Scotians are much more laid back, and infinitely friendlier than the people I have grown accustomed to. Where I live in Ohio, people are very rushed, and don’t take the time to interact with others. Nova Scotians seem more at ease, happier, and this resulted in a welcoming and friendly environment. Speaking of environment, they take theirs very seriously and tend to be more proactive than reactive. As a younger American, I often deal with a lot of climate anxiety, so it was a welcome change to see people taking care of their environment and protecting it. Litter was scarce, likely due to the results of heavy fines(up to $25,000 CAD). Stay tuned for my next blog, where I write about the nearby Polly Cove hiking trails, which offer great views of Peggy’s Point Lighthouse.